SAN SECONDO COOKED PORK SHOULDER
A very old artisan cured meat, for true gourmets
The cooked pork shoulder of San Secondo is a typical Italian artisan cured meat from the province of Parma that has very ancient origins.
Already, in the Middle Ages it was known and appreciated as evidenced by a parchment drawn up in San Secondo in 1170 and a chronicle of 1184.
This delicacy of the palate is obtained from the front quarter of the pig, a cut of meat that includes both the pork shoulder and the neck.
And thanks to the skilful touch of the hands of the norcini artisans it turns into a very delicious (even if little known) salami.
The choice to also use the coppa is due to the fact that the pork shoulder alone would be too lean and after cooking the salami would be very dry.
The neck, on the other hand, being fatter, gives the product the right softness.
SAN SECONDO COOKED PORK SHOULDER: THE PROCESSING
The front quarter of the pig after having been deprived of the so-called "shovel" (the shoulder blade of the pig, editor's note), which holds the two types of meat together, is trimmed, salted and tied by hand.
Subsequently, it is subjected to a short maturation, which gives the final product its particular flavor without the addition of teas and aromas.
It is then cooked in water and wine with the addition of natural spices.
At the end of cooking, the shoulders are cooled and vacuum-packed to be then stored at about 4 ° C.
COOKED PORK SHOULDER FROM SAN SECONDO VS. BAKED HAM
The difference between the cooked pork shoulder of San Secondo and the cooked ham lies not only in the cut of meat used but, above all, in the processing.
The cooked pork shoulder of San Secondo is still made today in an artisanal way.
The salting is done manually by spreading the salt around the piece of meat, not through the syringing as, however, happens with cooked ham.
Only through a period of massaging and resting, does the salt slowly penetrate the meats.
The binding is also done by hand.
And it is for this reason that one cannot find a cooked pork shoulder from San Secondo on the market like the other.
SAN SECONDO COOKED PORK SHOULDER: GIUSEPPE VERDI'S RECIPE
The cooked pork shoulder of San Secondo is remembered with a personal recipe of the great Italian composer Giuseppe Verdi, in a letter to Opprandino Arrivabene dated 27 April 1872.
The Master wrote:
“Dear Arrivabene, I will not become a feudal lord of the Rocca di San Secondo, but I can very well send you a shoulder that comes from that locality.
In fact, I already sent it to you this morning by rail.
Although the season is a little advanced, I hope you will find it good, but you have to eat it right away, before the heat arrives.
Do you know how she is cooked?
Before putting it on the fire, you need to remove the salt, that is, leave it for a couple of hours in warm water.
It must simmer for six hours, then you will let it cool in her broth.
Cold it is, that is to say about 24 hours later, take it out of the pot, dry it and eat it ”.
THE COOKED PORK SHOULDER OF SAN SECONDO
This salami can be eaten cold as an appetizer or, to enhance its aroma and flavor, it can be served as a main course by simmering it for a couple of hours in water and wine.
It goes perfectly with Emilian fried cake or polenta.
And it is even better if accompanied by a good wine, for example, a Fortana or a Lambrusco.
CONCLUSION
I hope you enjoyed the journey to discover this particular and rare product of the culinary tradition of Emilia Romagna.
I look forward to seeing you at the next post!
Ciao and bye bye,
Mamma Rosa
